GENERAL CONSTRUCTION TIPS
Strive to have a minimal impact on the surrounding environment.
Orient the home to take advantage of southerly exposure, using abundant windows on the
South side.
Design South side of home so that a dark colored stone/tile floor over concrete (thermal mass)
can absorb and store heat from winter sun. Installing such a floor with integrated radiant
tubing will also allow for transferring a portion of collected energy (with a circulator) to the
cooler north side of your home.
Design and utilize overhangs/aunings that will block the hottest summer sun from windows, to
prevent overheating the space.
Integrate roofing designs that aim toward the South, lending themselves to solar panel
installations (steeper pitches are better for collecting heat in the winter). You might consider
some roofing products which also serve as solar collectors.
Minimize windows on the cold North side of the home.
Integrate day-lighting to take advantage of utilizing free sunlight during daylight hours.
Install Pex tubing in all concrete slabs you pour, including garages and basements.
Insulate slabs and foundations from the earth for use as thermal storage banks (this should be
done whether Pex tubing is installed or not).
Increase thickness of concrete slabs and/or use additional gravel or sand underneath to
increase thermal mass and thermal storage capacity.
Install a well insulated thermal vault under or near your home, to save excess solar-thermal
summer heat, for heating your home in cooler months.
Use and purchase highly efficient appliances and fixtures.
Install radiant heat throughout the house (radiant heating systems require water
temperatures in the exact range that solar thermal systems provide).
Install highly efficient windows and doors.
Install extra insulation to keep future energy costs down.
Consider a greenhouse for generating heat for space heating and for thermal storage
purposes.
Purchase and use earth-friendly materials whenever possible.
Strive to have a minimal impact on the surrounding environment.
Orient the home to take advantage of southerly exposure, using abundant windows on the
South side.
Design South side of home so that a dark colored stone/tile floor over concrete (thermal mass)
can absorb and store heat from winter sun. Installing such a floor with integrated radiant
tubing will also allow for transferring a portion of collected energy (with a circulator) to the
cooler north side of your home.
Design and utilize overhangs/aunings that will block the hottest summer sun from windows, to
prevent overheating the space.
Integrate roofing designs that aim toward the South, lending themselves to solar panel
installations (steeper pitches are better for collecting heat in the winter). You might consider
some roofing products which also serve as solar collectors.
Minimize windows on the cold North side of the home.
Integrate day-lighting to take advantage of utilizing free sunlight during daylight hours.
Install Pex tubing in all concrete slabs you pour, including garages and basements.
Insulate slabs and foundations from the earth for use as thermal storage banks (this should be
done whether Pex tubing is installed or not).
Increase thickness of concrete slabs and/or use additional gravel or sand underneath to
increase thermal mass and thermal storage capacity.
Install a well insulated thermal vault under or near your home, to save excess solar-thermal
summer heat, for heating your home in cooler months.
Use and purchase highly efficient appliances and fixtures.
Install radiant heat throughout the house (radiant heating systems require water
temperatures in the exact range that solar thermal systems provide).
Install highly efficient windows and doors.
Install extra insulation to keep future energy costs down.
Consider a greenhouse for generating heat for space heating and for thermal storage
purposes.
Purchase and use earth-friendly materials whenever possible.
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We are revising this page to assist others in understanding how to make
mechanically sound and neat solar installations!
mechanically sound and neat solar installations!
APEX Thermal Services
Solar Systems Radiant Heating Energy Efficiency Consultation
| | | | | | |
First Subject - Penetrating The Roof with your pipes. Most Installations will require your pipes to
penetrate the roof. A copper "coolie cap" is the common method. On a recent installation, I
used my digital camera to create APEX Thermal Services' version of "The Anatomy of a Coolie
Cap." Some Solar Suppliers offer pre-made coolie caps, but they are surprisingly easy and fun to
make. Enjoy!
penetrate the roof. A copper "coolie cap" is the common method. On a recent installation, I
used my digital camera to create APEX Thermal Services' version of "The Anatomy of a Coolie
Cap." Some Solar Suppliers offer pre-made coolie caps, but they are surprisingly easy and fun to
make. Enjoy!
The plate of the coolie cap is constructed of
copper sheeting of decent thickness. It is heavier
than foil type products. I usually make mine about
8" x 8". With a hole saw or punch, make a 1" hole
on-center. The 1" copper pipe is 1.5" to 2" long. I
angle mine to come up plumb, but piping can also
come up perpendicular to the roof, your choice.
copper sheeting of decent thickness. It is heavier
than foil type products. I usually make mine about
8" x 8". With a hole saw or punch, make a 1" hole
on-center. The 1" copper pipe is 1.5" to 2" long. I
angle mine to come up plumb, but piping can also
come up perpendicular to the roof, your choice.
Clean and flux both surfaces before soldering. The
sheet distorts some when soldering, so it may be
challenging to hold the pipe exactly where you
want it. Still, I find this rather easy and fun to build.
When completed a 3/4" copper pipe should fit
through this easily. A small 1/4" tube can also be
added for a clean signal wire path through the roof.
sheet distorts some when soldering, so it may be
challenging to hold the pipe exactly where you
want it. Still, I find this rather easy and fun to build.
When completed a 3/4" copper pipe should fit
through this easily. A small 1/4" tube can also be
added for a clean signal wire path through the roof.
First, loosen several shingles around the area with a
flat bar. The coolie cap assembly is slid under the roof
shingle and over the pipe. Sometimes, one roofing
nail may need to be removed from the first shingle or
the one above, to allow for sliding the assembly up
into place.
flat bar. The coolie cap assembly is slid under the roof
shingle and over the pipe. Sometimes, one roofing
nail may need to be removed from the first shingle or
the one above, to allow for sliding the assembly up
into place.
Note that the location of the hole in the roof was
determined by the combined length pipe and fittings
attached to the panel header. Always keep
assembly in mind. Making the hole to close to the
panel can make assembling the parts difficult.
determined by the combined length pipe and fittings
attached to the panel header. Always keep
assembly in mind. Making the hole to close to the
panel can make assembling the parts difficult.
The modified 3/4" to 1 1/4" adapter is slid over the 3/4
pipe and the 1" stub of the coolie cap assembly. The
weather seal is formed by the 1 1/4" fitting
overlapping the 1" pipe stub, like an umbrella. This
fitting is only soldered to the 3/4" pipe and is not
soldered to the coolie cap assembly.
pipe and the 1" stub of the coolie cap assembly. The
weather seal is formed by the 1 1/4" fitting
overlapping the 1" pipe stub, like an umbrella. This
fitting is only soldered to the 3/4" pipe and is not
soldered to the coolie cap assembly.
Now, most of the copper is concealed, the 3/4"
copper pipe is in place, and the 3/4" to 1 1/4"
adapter has had the stop filed out of it so the 3/4
pipe slides through the fitting (A 1 1/4" cap with a
7/8" hole can also be used).
copper pipe is in place, and the 3/4" to 1 1/4"
adapter has had the stop filed out of it so the 3/4
pipe slides through the fitting (A 1 1/4" cap with a
7/8" hole can also be used).
Carefully solder everything together (after cleaning
and fluxing all surfaces). Note the aluminum flashing
used to protect the roof shingles. Hot solder will melt
its way into shingles, being somewhat unsightly and
difficult to remove.
and fluxing all surfaces). Note the aluminum flashing
used to protect the roof shingles. Hot solder will melt
its way into shingles, being somewhat unsightly and
difficult to remove.
A completed coolie cap assembly and piping to
panel supply pipe. Under the coolie cap, and nearby
shingles, polyurethane caulk was used (my
preference). For the panel return, a 1/4" pipe sticking
up about 1.5" can have the signal wire pass through it
and be caulked, again, with polyurethane caulk.
panel supply pipe. Under the coolie cap, and nearby
shingles, polyurethane caulk was used (my
preference). For the panel return, a 1/4" pipe sticking
up about 1.5" can have the signal wire pass through it
and be caulked, again, with polyurethane caulk.
Complete with Armaflex 3/4" wall insulation and a
complete wrap with electrical tape.
complete wrap with electrical tape.
| We hope you enjoyed our first tutorial!!! |
